OUT of a population of from sixty-five to
seventy thousand persons -- the number estimated to be in San Francisco at
the present time -- it is to be expected that for health, change, business or
recreation, a large proportion, at convenient seasons, will make a flying
visit to localities of interest that can be easily and cheaply reached, beyond
the suburbs of the city. Of these, one of the most interesting and pleasant is
that from San Francisco by the Mission Dolores to the Ocean House, and
Seal Rock; returning by Fort Point and the Presidio. Upon this interesting
jaunt we hope to have the pleasure of the reader's company; for it is almost
always more agreeable to visit such scenes in good companionship than to
go alone.
As these places are visited by all classes of persons, whose means and tastes
widely differ, it is not for us to say whether it is better to go on horseback,
or in a buggy; by a public omnibus, or a private carriage; or, on that very
primitive, somewhat independent, but not always the most popular
conveyance, technically denominated "a-foot." We must confess, however,
that inasmuch as our physical and mental organization are both capable of
enduring a large amount of comfort, as well as pleasure, our predilections
decidedly incline to the former. Yet, to those who, to be suited, would
choose even the latter, we can most conscientiously affirm that "we have no
objection!" This point, then, being duly conceded, with the reader's
consent, we will set out at once on our jaunt, each one by the conveyance
that pleases him feet.
Let us now thread our way among the numerous vehicles and foot-
passengers that crowd the various thoroughfares of the city, to Third
street, at which point we can take one of three routes to the Mission
Dolores; namely: by the Old Mission road, Folsom street, or Brannan
street, but either of the former is now by far the best. The Old Mission
road, as its name would indicate, was the first made road to that point;
although in 1849 and 1850, we had to thread our way among the low sand
hills, and across little valleys, by a very circuitous and laborious route. In
1851, this road was graded and planked; but as the planks wore rapidly
away, it was found to be very expensive to keep it in repair.-- Within the
past year, it has been macadamized nearly its entire length, and now is
almost as good as the far famed Shell road, between New Orleans and Lake
Pontchartrain.
It is difficult to give the actual amount of travel on either of these roads, as
much of this is regulated by the state of the weather; yet the following will
give an approximate estimate:
On the Old Mission road, an omnibus passes and repasses fourteen times
daily, with from 1 to 30 passengers, and will average 12 each way; leaving
the Plaza on the even hour, from 7 O'clock, A. M., to 8 P. M. The San Jose
stage, which leaves the Plaza at 8 A. M., and the Ocean House omnibus,
which leaves the Plaza at 10 A. M., passes and repasses daily; the Overland
Mail stage, via Los Angeles, which leaves the Plaza every Monday and
Friday, at noon; is due, returning on the same day, but it generally arrives
three or four days before time; Dorlin's express runs twice a day to the
Mission and back; in addition to these, there are 5 water carts, 10 milk, 12
meat, 18 bread, 40 vegetable, and from 20 to 30 express, or parcel wagons,
daily. On the 24th ult., there were 34 horsemen, 66 double horse, and 177
single horse vehicles, such as carriages, buggies, sulkies, &c., in addition to
those above mentioned.
On the Folsom street plank road, an omnibus passes and repasses twelve
times daily, with an average of 12 passengers, each way, leaving the Plaza
on the half hour. There are also, 40 milk, 20 vegetable, 20 lumber, liquor,
bread, and meat wagons, of single and double horse; and about 80 buggies,
single and double; besides foot passengers. On Sundays, no less than 40
omnibusses, and from 150 to 200 buggies, pass and repass, besides from 1
to 3,000 people, a large proportion of whom are bound for Russ' Gardens.
With this preliminary explanation, and the reader's consent, as we cannot
very conveniently journey together on both roads, we will take that which,
of the two, is rather the most pleasant, namely, the Folsom street. The sides
of this road, like those of the other, are adorned with private residences,
and well cultivated gardens and nurseries; among the latter, the first which
attracts the traveler's attention, is the "Golden Gate Nursery;" then the
"United States;" then "Sonntag's" and at the corner of Folsom and Centre,
the "Commercial Nursery."-- But after passing the former of these, and
before arriving at the latter, a large building to the south attracts our
attention; that is the French Hospital. Next is the celebrated Russ' Gardens,"
a popular resort for Germans, especially on Sundays. here let us digress
for a moment, to relate a somewhat amusing conversation that took place
on California street,between the servant of a friend, and German woman
whose husband makes a comfortable living by mending boots and shoes, In
a little wooden house on the side walk.
German woman, to Irish servant;" Bridget, why don't you
get marry, and live in a comfortable house of your own ?"
"Faith, and I don't see that ye's very comfortable ye'self, for ye's slaving
ye'self from Monthay marning until Satharday nite, washing clothes for
other peoples, while ye'r husban' is mending boots and shoes, in that box,
on the side walk."
"O yes, but what of that; you know we must all work for a living; and
besides, I and my husband are very happy the whole of the week, for if I
wash clothes, and he mends old boots and shoes, from Monday morning
until Saturday'night, we always go to Russ' Gardens on Sunday's!"
Now, if this does not preach a sermon on contentment, it is of no use our
trying. So we may as well pass on to say that the next object that attracts
our attention is the black volumes of smoke, that roll from the chimney-top of the San Francisco Sugar Refinery. In this refinery, some 4,200 tons
of sugar is refined annually, consuming about 1,600 tons of coal, 400 tons
of bones, (for making ivory or bone black for filtering purposes,)
1,300,000 staves, 1,100,000 hoops, and 200,000 heads for barrels and kegs.
-- Within, there are about 60 men employed; and without, from 75 to 80
more, in getting of staves, hoops, heads, making barrels, freighting,
teaming, &c.
But we must now pass on, and as quickly as possible, for two reasons;
reason first, the hog-ranches by the road side are not as fragrant as the
roses in Sonntag's nursery; and reason second will appear when we arrive
at Center st.[now 16th Street], and, turning to the right, cross the bridge over Mission
Creek, and on the new San Bruno turnpike, turn to get a general view of
the Mission, that may enable us to forget reason first.
The beautiful green hills, and pretty houses that here dot the landscape;
with the fine nurseries in the foreground, will explain why the Mission
Fathers chose this fertile and well watered valley in preference to the bleak
and comparatively barren Lagoon for their semi-religious and semi-philanthropic object.
In the hollow, some three hundred yards below the Nightingale hotel, is
the Willows, a shady retreat for pleasure seekers and parties; from which
spot let us now go at once to the Mission.
Now we have arrived at the quaint, old-fashioned, tile-covered adobe
church, and buildings attached; part of which is still in use by the Mission,
and a part is converted into saloons and a store. This edifice was erected in
1777-'76, and was completed and dedicated, August 1st, 1776; and was
formerly called San Francisco, in honor of the patron saint, St. Francis, the
name given to the Bay by its discoverer, Junipero Serra, in October, 1769.
While the church buildings were in course of erection, the Fathers had
great difficulty in keeping the Indians who performed most of the labor at
work. The earthy clay, of which the adobes were made, had to be prepared
by the Indians, who, after water had been thrown upon it, jumped in and
trampled it with their feet, but soon growing tired, they would keep
working only so long as the Fathers kept singing.
The visitor will notice a number of old adobe buildings scattered here and
there, in different directions; these were erected for the use of the Indians;
one part being used for boys, and the other for girls, and in which they
resided until they were about seventeen years of age, when they were
allowed to marry; after which other apartments were assigned them, more
in accordance with their condition.
As late as 1849, there were two large boilers in the buildings back of the
church; and as meat was almost the only article of food, an ox was killed
and boiled wholesale, at which time the Indians would gather around and
eat until they were satisfied. Of course, most of our readers are aware that
Catholics are not allowed to eat meat on a Friday, but owing to this being
the only article of diet to the Indians and native Californians, around the
Mission, they were not required to abstain from it, even on that day.
According to Mr. Forbes, a very careful and accurate writer, who
published a work in 1835, entitled the "History of Lower and Upper
California," the number of black cattle belonging to this Mission in 1831,
was 5,610; horses, 470; mules, 40; while only 233 fanegas (a fanegas is
about 2 1/2 bushels) of wheat; 70 of Indian corn; and 40 of small beans,
were raised altogether. At that time, however, the missions had lost much
of their former glory; for in 1825, only six years before, that of Dolores,
alone it is said to have had 76,000 head of cattle; 950 tame horses; 2,000 breeding mares; 84 stud, of
choice breed; 820 mules; 79,000 sheep; 2,000 hogs; and 456 yoke of
working oxen; aud raised 18,000 bushels of wheat and barley. Besides, in
1802, according to Baron Humboldt, there were of [Indian] males, in this
Mission, 433; of females, 381; total, 814. And yet, according to Mr.
Forbes, in 1831, there were but 124 males, and 85 females; and now, there
are none. Truly, "the glory has departed."
At that time, the Indians and native Californians, for many miles around,
would congregate at the Mission Dolores, about three times a year,
bringing with them cattle enough to kill while they remained, which was
generally about a week, and have a good holiday time with each other.
Before the discovery of gold it was the custom here to keep a tabular
record of all the men, women and children; members of. the church;
marriages, births and deaths; the number of live stock; and amount of
produce in all their business details: but since then everything has changed
for the worse. Even the lands devoted to, and sat apart for, the use of the
Mission, have nearly all been squatted upon, so that now but a few hundred
varas remain intact; and as to where the stock of all kinds have gone,
"deponent saith not."
It is quite a pleasurable curiosity to examine the old Spanish manuscript
books, still extant at this mission, and look upon their sheep-skin covered
lids, and buckskin clasps. Besides these there are about six hundred printed
volumes, in Spanish, on religious subjects; but being in a foreign language
they are seldom or never read. At the present time the only uses to which
this Mission is devoted is to give public instruction in the Catholic religion,
the education of some seventeen pupils; the burial of the dead; and an
occasional marriage. Of the last named, about eighteen have taken place
within the past four years. The great point of attraction here to visitors
from the city, is its quiet green graveyard; and but for its being so
negligently tended and slovenly kept would be one of the prettiest places
near the city. In this last peaceful home, from June 1st, 1858 to May 20th,
1859, the following will show how many have been laid --June, (1858 )
52; July, 67; August 55; September, 55; October, 65; November, 57;
December, 56; January, (1859) 35; February, 45; March, 38 April 83;
May,. up to the 20th, 28.
It seems as though we could never weary in looking upon these interesting
scenes; but as we have farther to go; and we trust, many more to look
upon, let us again set out on our jaunt, and visit this spot at our leisure.
Between the Mission Dolores and the Ocean House there are no objects of
striking interest, except, perhaps the San Francisco Industrial School,
recently erected for the benefit of depraved juveniles, situated near the top
of the ridge we are gently ascending, about six miles from the city and
three from the ocean. About this school we will have something say at a
future time.
Upon reaching the top of this ridge you perceive that we get a glimpse of
the Pacific ocean; and shortly afterwards find ourselves comfortably seated
in one of the parlors of the Ocean House, where, while our animals are
resting, let us say that this house is about eight and one fourth miles from
San Francisco, and was erected in 1855 by Messrs. Lovett and Green;
when, if report speaks the truth, they were just beginning to reap the
reward of their labors they were cheated out of it.
From this point we have a commanding view of the surrounding country.
The hill in front of us, and at the back of the Industrial school, contains a
quarry of the finest of sandstone, and which, were there but a railroad
upon which to convey it to the city, could be delivered there at from two to
three dollars per ton. South is the Lake House, and Rockaway House, at the
east end of lake Merced, but the latter is now used only as a private
residence. From this point, too, an excellent view of the ocean is obtained,
where the ships and steamers are plainly visible.
One would scarcely suppose that here, where the winds sweep over the land
with such fury, that stock of all kinds flourish better than in many of the
favored inland valleys, yet such is the fact; for owing to the dense masses
of heavy fog-clouds that roll in from the ocean the verdure is
perpetual, while in other localities it is parched up. The gardens around
produce from fifty-five to one hundred sacks of potatoes to the acre,
although the soil is very light and sandy. Besides, vegetables are taken to
the San Francisco market from this section, at an earlier time than from
that of any other part of the State.
About two miles north of the Ocean House, is a lake, known as the Laguna
Honda, at which a distressing accident occurred in 1855, as the reader will
call to memory, when two ladies and their two children were all drowned
together, under the following circumstances. In the back part of a carriage,
built in the rockaway style, were seated Mrs. Opeinhimer and Mrs.
Urzney, each lady holding a child. On the front seat were two servants, a
man and woman, the former of whom was driving. Having taken the road
up the Rock House ravine, instead of that to the Ocean House, they arrived
at the edge of the lake, above named, and the road not being wide enough
to admit their carriage, they drove into the water a little, on the edge of the
lake. They could have passed here in safely, but unfortunately the wheel
struck a stump, and by some unexplainable means, the horse was thrown
round, and be fell into deep water; when the carriage was immediately
turned upside down, and the forepart striking the water, was forced down
upon the two ladies and their children, shutting them completely in, and
they sunk to rise no more. The servants being left free, in the front of the
carriage, succeeded in reaching the shore, and were saved.
Snugly ensconced beneath the hill, about half a mile from the Ocean
House, and within a quarter of a mile of the sea, is the Beach House. This
was first built on the shore, near the edge of a small lake that we pass, but
the high tides flowing in, washed away its foundations, and compelled the
alternative of their removing it at once, or of allowing the sea to do it for
them; and as the owners considered themselves the best carpenters of the
two, they undertook, and succeeded, in the task -- but here we are, on the
beach. There is a never ceasing pleasure to a refined mind, in looking upon
or listening to the hoarse murmuring roar of the sea; and an unexplainable
charm in the music of the waves, as with a seething sound, they curl and
gently break upon a sandy shore, during a calm; or dash in all their majesty
and fury, with thundering voices upon the unheeding rocks in a storm. This
is sublimity. Besides, every shell, and pebble, and marine plant, from the
smallest fragment of sea-moss, to the largest weed that germinated
within the caverns of the deep, has an architectural perfection and beauty,
that ever attracts the wondering admiration of the thoughtful. Yet we must
not now linger here, or night will overtake us.
This beach extends continuously from Seal Rock to Muscle Rock, about
seven miles. Near the last named place is a soda spring, and several veins of
bituminous coal; to obtain which shafts have been sunk to the depth of 124
feet, in which the coal was found to grow better as they descended; but like
many similar enterprises, when means to work it failed, it was abandoned.
Other minerals are also found, in this chain of hills.
Having had our ride along the beach as far as Seal Rock, and watched the
movments, and listened to the loud shrill voices the sea-lions, let us take up
the sandbank south of the old Seal Rock House, (now tenantless,) and we
shall find the road from the Fort, as sandy and as heavy as we could desire
it; yet, with the consolation that we can endure it, if the horses are able,
until we reach Fort Foint.
When this was first taken and occupied by American troops belonging to
Col. Stephenson's battalion, under Maj. Hardie, in March, 1847, they found
a circular battery of 10 iron guns, 16 pounders, mounted upon the hill just
above the present works, and which was allowed to remain until a better
one was ready to occupy its place.
The present beautiful and substantial structure was commenced in 1854,
and is now nearly completed. It is four tiers in height, the topmost of
which is 64 feet above low tide; and is capable of mounting 150 guns,
including the battery at the back, of 42, 64, and 128 pounders; and during
an engagement, can accommodate 2,400 men. There have been
appropriations made, including the last, of $1,800,000. The greatest
number of men employed at any one time was 200; now there are about 80.
The Lighthouse adjoining the Fort, can be seen for from 10 to 12 miles,
and is an important addition to the mercantile interests of California,
although we regret to say, it in only of the fifth order, and known as the
"Fresnel Light," it and is the smallest on the coast; the lanthorn is 52 feet
above level. Two men are employed to attend it. Connected with this is a
Fog Bell, weighing 1,100 pounds, and worked by machinery, that strikes
every ten seconds, for five taps; then has an intermission of thirty-four seconds, and recommences the ten-second strike. This is kept
constantly running during foggy weather.
In the small bay south of the Fort, have been two wrecks, the Chateau
Palmer May lst, 1856, and the Gen. Cushing, Oct. 9th, 1858; both outward
bound, and partially freighted.
Between Fort Point and (the celebrated political hobby) Lime Point, is the
world-famed Golden Gate, or entrance to the Bay of San Francisco. This is
one mile and seventeen yards wide. The tide here varies about seven feet.
From this interesting spot, and on our way to the city, we pass the Presidio.
This is a military post that was established shortly after the arrival of the
first missionaries, mainly for their protection; and was originally occupied
by Spanish troops, and afterwards by Mexican, until March, 1847, when it
was taken by the United States; at which time the whole force of the enemy
was a single corporal. At this time also there were two old Spanish brass
field pieces found here; and two more near the beach about where
the end of Battery street, San Francisco, now is, and from which that street
derived its name.
The original buildings were constructed in a quadranglular form; these
having fallen into decay, but three remain, two of which at the present are
used as store rooms. At the close of the war, this post was occupied by a
company of dragoons, who were relieved by a company of the 3rd
Artillery, under Capt. Keys, who kept it continuously for ten years. Its
present garrison consists of two companies of the 6th Infantry, numbering
about 180, officers and men.
Hutchings' California Magazine
June 1859
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