Now we have arrived at the quaint, old-fashioned, tile-covered adobe
church, and buildings attached; part of which is still in use by the Mission,
and a part is converted into saloons and a store. This edifice was erected in
1777-'76, and was completed and dedicated, August 1st, 1776; and was
formerly called San Francisco, in honor of the patron saint, St. Francis, the
name given to the Bay by its discoverer, Junipero Serra, in October, 1769.
While the church buildings were in course of erection, the Fathers had
great difficulty in keeping the Indians who performed most of the labor at
work. The earthy clay, of which the adobes were made, had to be prepared
by the Indians, who, after water had been thrown upon it, jumped in and
trampled it with their feet, but soon growing tired, they would keep
working only so long as the Fathers kept singing.
The visitor will notice a number of old adobe buildings scattered here and
there, in different directions; these were erected for the use of the Indians;
one part being used for boys, and the other for girls, and in which they
resided until they were about seventeen years of age, when they were
allowed to marry; after which other apartments were assigned them, more
in accordance with their condition.
As late as 1849, there were two large boilers in the buildings back of the
church; and as meat was almost the only article of food, an ox was killed
and boiled wholesale, at which time the Indians would gather around and
eat until they were satisfied. Of course, most of our readers are aware that
Catholics are not allowed to eat meat on a Friday, but owing to this being
the only article of diet to the Indians and native Californians, around the
Mission, they were not required to abstain from it, even on that day.
According to Mr. Forbes, a very careful and accurate writer, who
published a work in 1835, entitled the "History of Lower and Upper
California," the number of black cattle belonging to this Mission in 1831,
was 5,610; horses, 470; mules, 40; while only 233 fanegas (a fanegas is
about 2 1/2 bushels) of wheat; 70 of Indian corn; and 40 of small beans,
were raised altogether. At that time, however, the missions had lost much
of their former glory; for in 1825, only six years before, that of Dolores,
alone it is said to have had 76,000 head of cattle; 950 tame horses; 2,000 breeding mares; 84 stud, of
choice breed; 820 mules; 79,000 sheep; 2,000 hogs; and 456 yoke of
working oxen; aud raised 18,000 bushels of wheat and barley. Besides, in
1802, according to Baron Humboldt, there were of [Indian] males, in this
Mission, 433; of females, 381; total, 814. And yet, according to Mr.
Forbes, in 1831, there were but 124 males, and 85 females; and now, there
are none. Truly, "the glory has departed."
At that time, the Indians and native Californians, for many miles around,
would congregate at the Mission Dolores, about three times a year,
bringing with them cattle enough to kill while they remained, which was
generally about a week, and have a good holiday time with each other.
Before the discovery of gold it was the custom here to keep a tabular
record of all the men, women and children; members of. the church;
marriages, births and deaths; the number of live stock; and amount of
produce in all their business details: but since then everything has changed
for the worse. Even the lands devoted to, and sat apart for, the use of the
Mission, have nearly all been squatted upon, so that now but a few hundred
varas remain intact; and as to where the stock of all kinds have gone,
"deponent saith not."
It is quite a pleasurable curiosity to examine the old Spanish manuscript
books, still extant at this mission, and look upon their sheep-skin covered
lids, and buckskin clasps. Besides these there are about six hundred printed
volumes, in Spanish, on religious subjects; but being in a foreign language
they are seldom or never read. At the present time the only uses to which
this Mission is devoted is to give public instruction in the Catholic religion,
the education of some seventeen pupils; the burial of the dead; and an
occasional marriage. Of the last named, about eighteen have taken place
within the past four years. The great point of attraction here to visitors
from the city, is its quiet green graveyard; and but for its being so
negligently tended and slovenly kept would be one of the prettiest places
near the city. In this last peaceful home, from June 1st, 1858 to May 20th,
1859, the following will show how many have been laid --June, (1858 )
52; July, 67; August 55; September, 55; October, 65; November, 57;
December, 56; January, (1859) 35; February, 45; March, 38 April 83;
May,. up to the 20th, 28.
It seems as though we could never weary in looking upon these interesting
scenes; but as we have farther to go; and we trust, many more to look
upon, let us again set out on our jaunt, and visit this spot at our leisure.
Between the Mission Dolores and the Ocean House there are no objects of
striking interest, except, perhaps the San Francisco Industrial School,
recently erected for the benefit of depraved juveniles, situated near the top
of the ridge we are gently ascending, about six miles from the city and
three from the ocean. About this school we will have something say at a
future time.
Upon reaching the top of this ridge you perceive that we get a glimpse of
the Pacific ocean; and shortly afterwards find ourselves comfortably seated
in one of the parlors of the Ocean House, where, while our animals are
resting, let us say that this house is about eight and one fourth miles from
San Francisco, and was erected in 1855 by Messrs. Lovett and Green;
when, if report speaks the truth, they were just beginning to reap the
reward of their labors they were cheated out of it.
From this point we have a commanding view of the surrounding country.
The hill in front of us, and at the back of the Industrial school, contains a
quarry of the finest of sandstone, and which, were there but a railroad
upon which to convey it to the city, could be delivered there at from two to
three dollars per ton. South is the Lake House, and Rockaway House, at the
east end of lake Merced, but the latter is now used only as a private
residence. From this point, too, an excellent view of the ocean is obtained,
where the ships and steamers are plainly visible.
One would scarcely suppose that here, where the winds sweep over the land
with such fury, that stock of all kinds flourish better than in many of the
favored inland valleys, yet such is the fact; for owing to the dense masses
of heavy fog-clouds that roll in from the ocean the verdure is
perpetual, while in other localities it is parched up. The gardens around
produce from fifty-five to one hundred sacks of potatoes to the acre,
although the soil is very light and sandy. Besides, vegetables are taken to
the San Francisco market from this section, at an earlier time than from
that of any other part of the State.
About two miles north of the Ocean House, is a lake, known as the Laguna
Honda, at which a distressing accident occurred in 1855, as the reader will
call to memory, when two ladies and their two children were all drowned
together, under the following circumstances. In the back part of a carriage,
built in the rockaway style, were seated Mrs. Opeinhimer and Mrs.
Urzney, each lady holding a child. On the front seat were two servants, a
man and woman, the former of whom was driving. Having taken the road
up the Rock House ravine, instead of that to the Ocean House, they arrived
at the edge of the lake, above named, and the road not being wide enough
to admit their carriage, they drove into the water a little, on the edge of the
lake. They could have passed here in safely, but unfortunately the wheel
struck a stump, and by some unexplainable means, the horse was thrown
round, and be fell into deep water; when the carriage was immediately
turned upside down, and the forepart striking the water, was forced down
upon the two ladies and their children, shutting them completely in, and
they sunk to rise no more. The servants being left free, in the front of the
carriage, succeeded in reaching the shore, and were saved.
Snugly ensconced beneath the hill, about half a mile from the Ocean
House, and within a quarter of a mile of the sea, is the Beach House. This
was first built on the shore, near the edge of a small lake that we pass, but
the high tides flowing in, washed away its foundations, and compelled the
alternative of their removing it at once, or of allowing the sea to do it for
them; and as the owners considered themselves the best carpenters of the
two, they undertook, and succeeded, in the task -- but here we are, on the
beach. There is a never ceasing pleasure to a refined mind, in looking upon
or listening to the hoarse murmuring roar of the sea; and an unexplainable
charm in the music of the waves, as with a seething sound, they curl and
gently break upon a sandy shore, during a calm; or dash in all their majesty
and fury, with thundering voices upon the unheeding rocks in a storm. This
is sublimity. Besides, every shell, and pebble, and marine plant, from the
smallest fragment of sea-moss, to the largest weed that germinated
within the caverns of the deep, has an architectural perfection and beauty,
that ever attracts the wondering admiration of the thoughtful. Yet we must
not now linger here, or night will overtake us.
This beach extends continuously from Seal Rock to Muscle Rock, about
seven miles. Near the last named place is a soda spring, and several veins of
bituminous coal; to obtain which shafts have been sunk to the depth of 124
feet, in which the coal was found to grow better as they descended; but like
many similar enterprises, when means to work it failed, it was abandoned.
Other minerals are also found, in this chain of hills.
Having had our ride along the beach as far as Seal Rock, and watched the
movments, and listened to the loud shrill voices the sea-lions, let us take up
the sandbank south of the old Seal Rock House, (now tenantless,) and we
shall find the road from the Fort, as sandy and as heavy as we could desire
it; yet, with the consolation that we can endure it, if the horses are able,
until we reach Fort Foint.
When this was first taken and occupied by American troops belonging to
Col. Stephenson's battalion, under Maj. Hardie, in March, 1847, they found
a circular battery of 10 iron guns, 16 pounders, mounted upon the hill just
above the present works, and which was allowed to remain until a better
one was ready to occupy its place.
The present beautiful and substantial structure was commenced in 1854,
and is now nearly completed. It is four tiers in height, the topmost of
which is 64 feet above low tide; and is capable of mounting 150 guns,
including the battery at the back, of 42, 64, and 128 pounders; and during
an engagement, can accommodate 2,400 men. There have been
appropriations made, including the last, of $1,800,000. The greatest
number of men employed at any one time was 200; now there are about 80.
The Lighthouse adjoining the Fort, can be seen for from 10 to 12 miles,
and is an important addition to the mercantile interests of California,
although we regret to say, it in only of the fifth order, and known as the
"Fresnel Light," it and is the smallest on the coast; the lanthorn is 52 feet
above level. Two men are employed to attend it. Connected with this is a
Fog Bell, weighing 1,100 pounds, and worked by machinery, that strikes
every ten seconds, for five taps; then has an intermission of thirty-four seconds, and recommences the ten-second strike. This is kept
constantly running during foggy weather.
In the small bay south of the Fort, have been two wrecks, the Chateau
Palmer May lst, 1856, and the Gen. Cushing, Oct. 9th, 1858; both outward
bound, and partially freighted.
Between Fort Point and (the celebrated political hobby) Lime Point, is the
world-famed Golden Gate, or entrance to the Bay of San Francisco. This is
one mile and seventeen yards wide. The tide here varies about seven feet.
From this interesting spot, and on our way to the city, we pass the Presidio.
This is a military post that was established shortly after the arrival of the
first missionaries, mainly for their protection; and was originally occupied
by Spanish troops, and afterwards by Mexican, until March, 1847, when it
was taken by the United States; at which time the whole force of the enemy
was a single corporal. At this time also there were two old Spanish brass
field pieces found here; and two more near the beach about where
the end of Battery street, San Francisco, now is, and from which that street
derived its name.
The original buildings were constructed in a quadranglular form; these
having fallen into decay, but three remain, two of which at the present are
used as store rooms. At the close of the war, this post was occupied by a
company of dragoons, who were relieved by a company of the 3rd
Artillery, under Capt. Keys, who kept it continuously for ten years. Its
present garrison consists of two companies of the 6th Infantry, numbering
about 180, officers and men.
Hutchings' California Magazine
June 1859
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